Words + Photos by Ashton Palmer
After more than 50 trips to the White Continent, you might think the excitement would fade. No rushing to the deck when the intercom announces the first iceberg sighting, no adrenaline while spotting wildlife, no astonishment as the sun sets over the sea ice.
But it never does.
Antarctica, in its infinite ego, insists on blowing my mind every single time.
We embarked at the end of October on the National Geographic–Lindblad Expeditions’ Antarctica, South Georgia, and Falklands itinerary. A 22-day journey that easily ranks as one of the best I’ve ever taken.
Let's roll the tape.
Act I: The Falklands, the Albatrosses & the Storm
We kicked things off by boarding the National Geographic Resolution in Ushuaia. I’ll say it plainly: she is one of the finest ships ever built. Beautifully curated spaces, a truly polar-proof hull, sustainably impeccable, and a layout that makes you wonder if expedition vessels should all be designed this way.
Steeple Jason, in the Falklands, was our first landing. Picture this: the largest colony of black-browed albatross in the world. Ten thousand of them, together with gentoo, rockhopper, and Magellanic penguins, all congregating here. It's a full-blown avian metropolis.
The weather was blissful, the wildlife was abundant, and the spirit at its highest.
Then, plot twist.
A big storm was marching toward us, so our captain and expedition leader made the call to skip a day in the Falklands and push early toward South Georgia.
The beauty of traveling with such an experienced team is that you can simply trust them—and, no surprise, it was a great call.
Act II: South Georgia, Nature’s Overachiever
South Georgia. Beloved, overwhelming, dramatic, everything-all-at-once South Georgia.
Five full days surrounded by wildlife on a scale you can’t truly grasp until you’re standing in the middle of it.
Every beach looked like a “Where’s Waldo?” puzzle, except Waldo is a king penguin and there are 300,000 Waldos.
We saw:
- Penguins as far as the eye could see
- Massive elephant seals basking on the shores
- Albatrosses soaring over our heads with an unachievable level of elegance
- Belligerent fur seals in peak mating season
We also revisited the historic whaling stations—ghostly, powerful reminders of the region’s past—and did enough hikes and Zodiac rides to make us all feel morally justified about the exquisite 3-course + desserts on board.
The weather? Ridiculously good, like a blessing from Poseidon himself.
Act III: The First Time in the South Orkneys
I have no excuse for never having been to the South Orkney Islands before. But I’ll tell you what: they made up for lost time.
We were greeted by one of the largest chinstrap penguin colonies I’ve ever seen. Leopard seals patrolled the edges, and the scenery was the perfect Antarctica’s opening act.
And once again, the weather was on our side, holding beautifully.
Act IV: Antarctica, Forever Diva
Then we reached the Peninsula itself. And trust me on this: it just never gets old.
We spent days exploring its snow-covered amphitheaters, with:
- Mirror-calm seas reflecting the snowy peaks so perfectly the horizon basically quit
- Wildlife everywhere (sea, land, sky)
- Soft, golden evening light on ice that makes photographers weep
There were moments when the ship moved through such perfect stillness it felt as if Antarctica had paused just for us. It didn't: the White Continent has the power to mesmerize you without even trying.
Act V: First-Timers' Joy
One of the highlights was traveling with dear friends who were visiting for the first time. There is something deeply satisfying about watching someone’s jaw drop for 21 consecutive days.
Antarctica has that effect.
South Georgia has that effect.
The Falklands have that effect.
Sharing these places with people I care about made the entire journey feel even more special.
Epilogue:
After nearly three weeks aboard, I stepped off the Resolution feeling grateful for:
- Fair winds
- Wildlife that showed up and delivered
- A ship that makes the journey feel effortless
- A team whose expertise you can feel in every decision
- And a trip that, frankly, will be hard to top (but I’m open to trying)
If this report leaves you curious, inspired, or ready to pack, I’m always happy to talk adventure.
Until next time,
Ashton
