
Iceland/Greenland
Why Visit
Greenland is 80% covered in ice, but don’t let that fool you. This magnificent, rugged land is filled with vibrant scenery, wildlife, and culture. Roam the tundra, visit historic whaling stations and trappers’ camps, witness icebergs calve and explore ice cliffs aboard zodiacs—all in this minimally inhabited corner of the globe.
Putting the green in Greenland are more than 500 species of plants. Tiny wildflowers blanket the tundra hillsides. Polar bear, musk oxen, whales and walrus are just a few remarkable creatures seen on Greenland tours. More than 100 species of birds are found here as well.
You’ll stand astonished at icebergs more than 30 meter high, surrounded by deep green tunnels and aquamarine lakes. “Grounded” icebergs and their ethereal blue glow will leave you speechless. The famous Scoresbysund Fjord, Kaiser Franz Josef Fjord, Kong Oscar Fjord and the Fjord Mountains are just a few stunning geographic highlights of Greenland cruises.
Traveling to Greenland by ship is just about the only way to enjoy the National Park—the world’s largest national park—where could be greeted by polar bears, walrus, eider duck, arctic hare and others. About 40% of the world’s population of musk oxen lives on Greenland’s eastern coast. Aboard zodiac inflatable boats, you’ll go in search of four species of seals: ringer, bearded, harp and hooded.
This area of Greenland is also home to the remote Inuit community of Itoqqortoormiit—one of the last living hunter societies on earth. Here you’ll learn firsthand about the challenges and rewards of Arctic life. Itoqqortoormiit also happens to be one of the best places in the north to view the aurora borealis, or northern lights.
A jaunt over to neighboring Iceland offers you an up-close look at a land where icy glaciers share space with volcanoes, geysers and thermal springs. Iceland cruises offer a chance to spot wildlife like arctic fox and reindeer as well as like whistling swan and eider duck.
A trip to Greenland with an accompanying Iceland adventure cruise is a “wild” experience you’ll remember long after you’ve returned home—with stunning photographs and warm memories of this icy Arctic wonderland.
History
Greenland was first explored by Eric the Red, a Norwegian settler in Iceland and father of the famous explorer Leif Ericson. Legend claims he dubbed the area “Greenland” to make the area sound more appealing to other settlers who might join him there. Whether or not this is true, several Icelandic settlements were established in Greenland under Eric’s leadership toward the end of the 10th century. These Norse people lived in Greenland until about 1500 before vanishing with little explanation. Evidence of their existence remains in the Viking ruins that are still visible today.
The history of humans in the area far predates Eric the Red, however. The first inhabitants likely crossed the frozen sea from Canada 4-5000 years ago. At least six waves of Inuit immigrants migrated to Greenland. However, there were long periods where Greenland was completely uninhabited because of the harsh conditions. Most of today’s modern Greenlanders are descendents of the last weave of immigrants, the Thule people.
Perhaps the Thule were at last able to survive through innovation. Inventions such as the kayak, a woman’s knife known as the ulo, soapstone lamps, harpoons, bird spears and animal hide clothing all contributed to a successful hunting and fishing culture which sustained the early inhabitants and remains alive to this day.
Greenland is the world’s largest island that is not a continent. Scientists speculate that it is actually a group of several islands joined by vast and thick layers of ice. Over 80% of Greenland is covered in ice, reaching a thickness of as much as 8000 feet in places. The amount of water currently locked in Greenland’s ice is said to be enough to raise global sea levels by 23 feet if it were released.
Most of the country’s citizens live along the fjords in the southwest. The fjords offer protection from winds and provide fertile ground for the country’s limited agricultural efforts. This area has a relatively mild climate and unusually rich fauna for Greenland, due in part because of the open water in the mouth of the fjords—with polynyas not freezing even in winter.
Despite the appearance of a few high-rise buildings, crowded airports, and busy fishing ports, Greenland remains a serene and sparsely populated country. No roads link one community to the other—all travel happens by air, ice or water. While the dogsled is gradually being replaced by the snowmobile, it is still a common and viable means of transportation. The economy is sustained by fishing (mostly shrimp), whaling, sealing, fur trapping and the byproducts of these endeavors. Greenland travel and tourism is a growing industry that could positively impact the economy in coming decades.
Greenland was under Danish control beginning in 1721, when Danish missionary Hans Egede arrived. Although Greenland was granted self-government in 1979, the country is still subsidized by Denmark and the laws of Denmark apply there.
For centuries, Greenland has been a place of interest to explorers, scientists and researchers. Early adventurers passed through the area seeking the fabled Northwest Passage in the early 15th century. Later, the likes of Henry Hudson and William Baffin navigated and studied Greenland’s western coastline. In the early 1900s, British and German expeditions made weather observations from Greenland. Today, the unique flora and fauna of the region, as well as phenomena like the aurora borealis, continue to make Greenland the site of many scientific surveys and expeditions each year. Additionally, Greenland’s Viking ruins draw interest from around the globe.
Neighboring Iceland consists largely of lava tablelands and mountains where no humans dwell. Yet this island nation offers an array of natural wonders. Geologic features include boiling mud lakes, geysers, and thermal springs. In fact, the capital city of Reykjavik uses nearby hot springs to heat homes and industrial establishments. Arctic fox and reindeer are often spotted on land, while the freshwater rivers and lakes teem with salmon and trout. The sea surrounding Iceland is rich with whales, seals, cod, haddock, halibut and herring. Over 100 species of birds inhabit the land as well—many of them aquatic species.
Norse chieftain Ingólfur Arnarson was the first permanent settler to Iceland, arriving in the late 800s. Many Norsemen who followed in his footsteps brought with them slaves of Gaelic origin. Today the population of Iceland remains almost entirely Nordic and Gaelic.
Photos: © WOLFGANG KAEHLER
How to Choose a Trip
When looking for an adventure to the Arctic, it’s easy to become confused by the many different options. Several factors come into play when you’re selecting a trip and knowing your preferences in each of these areas will help you narrow the field and select the trip that’s just right for you.
When to Travel
Voyages to Svalbard are generally offered from June through early August, with the best time for your chances of seeing polar bears being early in the season while there is still lots of ice.
Iceland, Greenland, and Canadian High Arctic expeditions are typically scheduled from July into September. Later voyages that explore the higher latitudes may give you the chance to see the magical aurora borealis!
Icebreaker trips to the North Pole begin in mid- to late June, and may be offered in early July. The window for travel to the top of the world is short, so there are usually only one or two trips per season.
Polar bear expeditions on Hudson Bay are operated from early October through mid-November. Over the course of the short season, the environment can change quickly. The tundra is generally bare until late October, when the first blanket of snow often arrives. Once the ice has frozen over, polar bears clear out quickly. The exact timing of the first snow and the departure of the bears is very difficult to predict, as weather patterns have changed significantly over the past several years.
Trip Options
The Svalbard Archipelago, also commonly referred to as the Norwegian Arctic or Spitsbergen (after the archipelago’s largest and most populated island), is situated high above the Arctic Circle and is one of the best places in the world to view polar bears out on the ice. Svalbard is easily accessed by daily flights from Oslo to Spitsbergen’s airport in Longyearbyen, where you board your expedition ship. These programs focus predominantly on natural history and wildlife.
Other areas of the Arctic—Iceland, Greenland, and the Canadian High Arctic—have some amazing wildlife and stunning scenery as well. Iceland is a wonderland of geologic activity, and is also easily accessed by flights from North America and Europe. Greenland and the Canadian Arctic are a bit more difficult to reach, but they have an interesting cultural element that adds depth to the experience. Expeditions embarking/disembarking in Greenland or the Canadian Arctic typically generally have charter flights arranged through the shipping companies.
North Pole expeditions generally embark/disembark in Murmansk, and require charter flights from Helsinki.
The land-based polar bear trips are centered in Churchill, a small hamlet in the Canadian province of Manitoba. As polar bears congregate on the shores of Hudson Bay in the fall, waiting for the ice to freeze over so they can return to hunting on the pack ice, there can be a large concentration of bears in the area. These expeditions begin in Winnipeg, which is serviced from several cities in the US and Canada. After spending a night in a comfortable hotel, you fly to Churchill to begin your adventure.
In the vast Arctic region, where there is little infrastructure, the very best way to explore most areas is by expedition ship.
Ship Options
An ice-strengthened vessel with an expert captain and expedition leader will get you into areas that are rarely seen by other travelers. There is a wide range of ships available, and accommodations range from dorm-like research vessels to luxury expedition ships. While some of your wildlife watching will be from the deck of the ship, especially when you’re viewing polar bears, small vessels provide the opportunity to get even closer to the action. Not only will you have the opportunity for Zodiac cruising, and but you’ll also have a chance to go ashore to view the tundra, wildlife, and remnants of human history up close. Hiking is offered in some locations, and select ships offer kayaking and/or snowshoeing opportunities.
To reach the North Pole, you’ll travel on a powerful icebreaker. They tend to be very basic, but they are fascinating and the ship itself is an integral part of your experience. Some Russian icebreakers have a helicopter and/or hot air balloon that can give you a completely different perspective at the top of the world!
On the shores of Hudson Bay, land-based polar bear expeditions can offer an up-close polar bear viewing experience. At night you stay in a simple hotel or train-like lodge on the tundra, but during the day you venture out for game drives in a well-outfitted Polar Rover. Depending on the conditions and the program you choose, dogsledding and flight seeing may be offered.
Let us help you
Let ExpeditionTrips take the guesswork out of selecting your Arctic trip. Our company is a crossroads for information and we can help you select the trip that will offer the kind of experience you are seeking. We’ll help you select the perfect trip for your journey to the dramatic and pristine Arctic!