Everyone onboard was outstanding--staff, guides, and crew. It was hard to believe we were cruising on a Russian icebreaker with such great service and food. They always seemed to add a little something extra to try to make the experience even better.

I had been to the Antarctic Peninsula 20 years ago and enjoyed that experience so much I wanted to go back and see more of the continent. The highlights for me were the penguins. One day while 'docked' in the ice while visiting the Dry Valleys, dozens of Emperor and Adelie penguins entertained us for hours just by diving into the clear, icy water and then popping back up onto the ice floe--like little kids on a playground of ice. And, at Camp Adare, I was taking pictures at the rookery and noticed that a little Adelie had snuck up on me and was staring up at me from between my feet as if to ask, 'Where is YOUR tuxedo?'

It was a little more difficult than I expected, but that's because of the Antarctic conditions you have to deal with. I don't think much could be done to improve such a journey. You go and do what Antarctica lets you do.