Introduction
The well-trod path
Is covered with fallen leaves
Sweep them aside
To view the footprints of the Sun Goddess

— Ninomiya, peasant sage

According to Japanese legend, the Sun Goddess, Amaterasu, bestowed upon her grandson a jewel, a sword, and a mirror. With these he descended to earth, alighting on the southern island of Kyûshû in the land of the rising sun.

Japan travel is a study in contrasts, well-trod and yet obscured by seeming contradictions and stereotypes. Snow-capped Mt. Fuji and the rugged San-In coast, serene raked gardens and daily rumblings of the earth, a people who have absorbed foreign influences yet emerged with a unique culture.

A brief stroll through the arcades of Kyoto’s Teramachi quarter takes you past a fine lacquerware shop, a noisy pachinko parlor, a chestnut roastery, a display of the latest cell phones, a pickle seller, and, with a quick turn between stalls, into the hush of an ancient stone-paved shrine.

Travel to Japan and discover its natural and cultural beauty — find out to what wonders the footprints of the Sun Goddess may lead you.
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Natural History
Japan is comprised of four major islands—Hokkaidô, Honshû, Shikoku, and Kyûshû—plus some thousand smaller islands, scattered in a 1,000-mile arc along the eastern rim of Asia. To its west, the Sea of Japan (or East Sea) keeps the island chain at distance from Russia, North and South Korea, China, and Taiwan.

From the sub-arctic climates of Hokkaidô through temperate Honshû to the lush, subtropical Ryûkyû Islands to the far south, the country covers a span comparable to that between Montreal and Miami. Furthermore, the protection by continental Asia on one side and exposure to the Pacific Ocean on the other yield a diversity of environments and microclimates.

Fire and water dominate the archipelago, formed by the crest of a submerged volcanic mountain range and part of the Pacific Ring of Fire. It is one of the most seismically active places in the world; earthquakes are a daily occurrence, though most are barely potent enough to register on the scales. Kyûshû's Mt. Aso is the most active volcano in the world. On the other hand, Japan’s geological restlessness has produced a liberal peppering of onsen (hot springs) throughout the country, which are widely enjoyed.

Edo-period gardens may offer the best places to see native plant species, because much of the natural landscape consists of non-native, “naturalized” species. Pine and cedar trees are highly prized for their beauty as well as for their qualities as raw material for artisanal crafts. Japanese reverence for nature carries beyond the practical and into the spiritual. It is not unusual to see a shimenawa (sacred rope) hung around a tree, indicating that a spirit resides within.

Japan is famous for its spring blossoming of cherry trees, a spectacular sight by any standard. News reports track the “cherry blossom front” as it sweeps northward with warmer temperatures, and everyone, from kimono-clad older ladies to fun-loving teens, comes out to picnic and drink sake (rice wine) beneath the trees.

While not a typical wildlife destination, Japan does have several notable species. The elegant crane is a national symbol. Of interest to birdwatchers are the laysan albatross, blue and white flycatchers, narcissus flycatcher, Japanese grosbeak, and Japanese green pigeon.

The largest carnivores are the brown and Asiatic bears. The most peculiar animal is the giant salamander, which grows up to five feet long and is sometimes called sanshouo because it smells like Japanese pepper (sansho). The Iriomote cat, found only the Ryûkyû Islands, is a “living fossil.” The monkey, rabbit, fox, and tanuki (raccoon-like badger) are the beloved heroes (and sometimes villains) of folk tales. And the Japanese macaque, or snow monkey, of Hokkaidô is famous for its peaceful expression as it soaks in a hot spring, even as a crust of snow forms on its head.

For more information on the natural history of Japan, see book selections below.
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History
The earliest inhabitants of Japan migrated over land bridges from Siberia and Korea and came by sea from Polynesia. The first signs of civilization appeared around 10,000 BC. Around AD 300, the Yamato kingdom of loosely unified groups emerged. The emperor was said to be descended from Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess.

Prince Shôtoku brought Buddhism to Japan in the middle of the 6th century. The period of the 8th through 11th centuries was rich with ideas introduced from China and Korea. Even the new imperial capital in Heian—now Kyoto—was modeled on the Chinese capital in Xi’an. Arts and culture flourished.

The imperial court weakened as it became more preoccupied with leisurely refinement than with ruling the country. Administration fell to the samurai (warrior class), which formed its own army. In 1185 the samurai took control, leaving the emperor as mere figurehead and propelling the country into a military feudal system. At the top were the shogun (generals). Successive shogun dynasties ruled Japan for the next seven centuries.

In the mid-16th century, the first European traders and missionaries arrived. Fearful of the West’s influence, the shogunate eventually began to roll back the welcome mat. When Tokugawa Ieyasu seized power in 1600, he drove the country into sakoku (national seclusion). Ports were closed to outsiders, and foreign influence was shunned. Tokugawa moved his administration to the backwater town of Edo.

The Tokugawa shogunate collapsed into stagnation and corruption by the late 1700s. Japan was choked with poverty and famine. When U.S. Commodore Matthew Perry’s fleet forced open Japan’s ports in 1853, anti-government sentiment reached fever pitch. The shogunate was accused of allowing Japan to lapse into underdevelopment.

The last shogun resigned in 1867. Emperor Meiji returned to power, beginning the period known as the Meiji Restoration. Meiji dismantled the feudal system and consolidated the government in Edo, renamed Tokyo. A crash program of modernization and industrialization transformed the country.

By the late 1800s, national confidence had been restored and started to swing toward nationalism—and aspirations to regional domination, resulting in the Sino-Japanese War in 1895 and the Russo-Japanese War in 1904-5.

Japan assumed a secondary role in World War I. Profiting from wartime trade, the zaibutsu (clique of industrialists and bankers) rose in influence.

Aggressive militarism reared up again; Japan invaded Manchuria in 1931 and launched a full-scale war on China in 1937. Now the dominant power in Asia, Japan signed a pact with Italy and Germany in 1940 and entered World War II.

In 1945 Japan surrendered after atomic bombs were dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki. For the second time in the span of a century, the devastated country was restructured, this time by American occupational forces. They resurrected factories, disbanded the military, and installed a democracy modeled on the British parliamentary system. In a humiliating gesture, the emperor was forced to renounce his divinity—the end of a thousand-year tradition.

The Occupation lasted until 1952. By the end of the decade, Japan’s economy was starting to recover. By the 1980s, Japan led the world in exports. Dubbed the “economic miracle,” Japan seemed capable of unstoppable growth.

The bubble burst in the early 1990s. The economy slowed drastically. The conservative Liberal Democratic Party (LDP), rocked by corruption and scandal, lost its 38-year grip on power to an eight-party coalition. Japan was shaken (literally) by the massive Kôbe earthquake, followed by a gas attack on Tokyo’s subway system by a religious cult. The coalition government’s slow, clumsy handling of problems frustrated voters. By 1996, the LDP was voted back into control.

Japan’s economy appears to be on the mend, but not without social change. The public has grown tired of the endless scandals and back-room deals which have consumed the government. The materialism and workaholic ethic of the 1980s have given way to restraint. Workers cannot assume lifetime employment with a company. Companies which once famously expected employees to work late hours now encourage them to leave at five. Japan’s “salaryman” is donning a new role: family man.

For more information on the history of Japan, see book selections below.
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Culture
Most visitors are drawn to Japan for its fascinating culture. The contrasts between tradition and technology, flash and austerity, the enduring and the transient, form a rich (and sometimes baffling) tapestry.

One of the striking aspects of Japanese culture is the ease with which the two major religions, Shinto and Buddhism, appear to mingle. In fact, both are equally practiced by the majority of Japanese people; they simply occupy different realms in life. Shinto, which is indigenous to Japan, is the more ancient of the two. It is based on nature and spirit (kami) worship. There are hundreds of thousands of spirits; most often depicted are the Seven Lucky Gods. Hotei, with his bald head, fat belly, and happy smile, is the god of happiness, though Westerners usually mistake him for the Buddha. Shrines (jingu) are Shinto and can easily be identified by the torî gates at their entrance. Shinto rites and festivals, such as the summer Obon festival, are important components of Japanese life.

Buddhism, imported from India by way of China, is more of a philosophical or intellectual influence. Temples (ji) are Buddhist. There a many different sects of Buddhism, but Zen is the one most often associated with Japan. Zen emphasizes austere simplicity, spontaneity, and meditation.

Japanese artistic traditions, many originally drawn from China and Korea, have developed into distinctive forms over centuries. Towns and regions boast particular specialties in crafts, performing arts, and food.

Skilled craftspeople are revered in Japan. In addition to the well-known ceramics, silk dyeing, lacquerware, paper, and weaving arts, there are a number of more everyday items that are still produced in a traditional and skillful way, such as tatami (straw mats) and hand-wrapped brooms. It is definitely worthwhile to spend some time at crafts museums and seek out workshops where these items are painstakingly made.

Japan is also rich in traditional performing arts, with kabuki and nô theater being the most well-known. Kabuki is a grand spectacle of ornate costuming, dramatic movement, and at times soap-opera-like drama. Nô, on the other hand, is extremely restrained and stylized. Japanese music and dance can be refined, like the kinds performed by geisha, or lively, like the street dances and rousing taiko drumming at festival time.

For those with adventurous palates, cuisine is one of the great delights of a visit to Japan. The offerings extend far beyond sushi and teriyaki sauce. Meals range from simple and hearty—buckwheat noodles (soba) dipped in broth, or okonomiyaki, a kind of omelette—to spectacular arrays of small dishes, each a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds. Staple foods are rice and soybeans, from which miso is made, plus local fish and seafood on the coast or vegetables in the mountains. The creativity used in transforming these simple ingredients into hundreds of different dishes is remarkable—and tasty. Wash down everything with a glass of the local sake.

For more information on Japanese culture, see book selections below.
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Dos and Don'ts
Japan Travel Tips:

Do try to learn some basics of Japanese etiquette. Your courtesy and effort will be much appreciated by Japanese people. Unless you commit a serious offense, however, they will politely turn a blind eye rather than point out your mistake.

Do not blow your nose in public. Sniffing is considered good manners. Should you become desperate, gently dab your nose with a tissue.

Do slurp your noodles! It is a sign of enjoyment.

When meeting a person, it is customary to bow, bending at the waist with your arms at your sides. If the person presents you with a business card, take it in both hands and acknowledge it with a small bow. Never tuck it into your trouser pocket.

Wear socks or nylons and be prepared to take off your shoes upon entering a home, historic building, or traditional shop. Slippers are usually provided at the door. Never wear shoes on a tatami mat.

When sitting on a tatami, kneel with your legs tucked beneath you. If this is too uncomfortable, sit with your legs to one side, making sure the bottoms of your feet are not pointing at someone. Sitting cross-legged is considered somewhat crass for a man, and really crass for a woman.

If you plan to visit someone’s house, it is customary to take a small but nicely wrapped gift. If giving a group of items (apples, for example), give three or five; four is unlucky.

Practice a few deep knee-bends daily to limber up for possible encounters with traditional-style toilets.
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Weather
Japan’s mountains, the archipelago’s length, and its proximity to the continental landmass create a complex weather system. The southern islands are generally warm and humid, while the north has short summers and long winters with lots of snowfall. In the winter months cold, dry air from Siberia causes heavy snowfall in western Japan. The summer months bring warm, moist air from the Pacific, producing high temperatures and humidity throughout Japan. Late summer is typhoon season, bringing torrential rains and strong winds to the coastal regions.
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Best Time to Go
Because of Japan’s complex weather, different regions have optimal seasons to visit. Spring and autumn present the best overall opportunities.

Spring (March – May) brings clear skies and cherry blossoms but also draws crowds to popular sites. 'Golden Week' in late April or early May is a peak holiday time for Japanese families, who flock out of the cities; it is wise to plan around this week. Autumn (October – November) is a good time to visit; expect mild temperatures and brilliant fall colors. Summer is pleasant in the northern latitudes of Hokkaido, but is sticky and uncomfortable around Tokyo and areas south. Winter can be bitterly cold.
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Temperature Range
Spring: Tokyo 35–72°F (2–22°C), Sapporo 20–60°F (-7–16°C)
Summer: Tokyo 62–86°F (17–30°C), Sapporo 50–78°F (10–26°C)
Winter: Tokyo 29–51°F (-2–11°C), Sapporo 10–33°F (-12–1°C)
Fall: Tokyo 42–70°F (6–21°C), Sapporo 29–60°F (-2–16°C)
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Books
Memoirs of a Geisha, by Arthur S. Golden
Biography
In simple, elegant prose, Golden puts us right in the tearoom with the geisha; we are there as she gracefully fights for her life in a social situation where careers are made or destroyed by a witticism, a too-revealing (or not revealing enough) glimpse of flesh under the kimono, or a vicious rumor spread by a rival "as cruel as a spider."

18th Century Japan : Culture and Society, by C. Andrew Gerstle
Culture
A real treat to read. A great book for anyone that has a passion for history or Japan.

The Gardens of Japan, by Teiji Itoh, Itoh Teiji, Richard L. Gage
General Interest
Informative text and a treat for the eyes, includes the origins and history of the garden in Japan, discusses the different types that evolved over time, and brings the story up to date. The most famous gardens in the country are featured. 78 color and 150 b&w photos; 30 plans and drawings.

Wild Flowers of Japan : A Field Guide, by Ran Levy
Field Guide
A portable, color field guide to Japanese wildflowers.

Gateway to Japan (Kodansha Guide), by June Kinoshita & Nicholas Palevsky
Guide Book
A wonderful guidebook. Perfect for the person who is serious about wanting to understand Japan, its history, and its culture. If you want to carry only one book - this is it.

Hirohito and the Making of Modern Japan, by Herbert P. Bix
History
For those interested in Japan's wartime past and its influence on the present, this is fascinating, if lengthy, reading.

Lonely Planet Japan (6th Ed), by Chris Taylor, Nicko Goncharoff, Mason Florence, Christian Rowthorn
Guide Book
This thorough guide is the perfect companion for discovering the classical and contemporary delights of Japan. The more than 170 maps have keys in both English and Japanese script and there's a 30-page arts section covering everything from calligraphy to rock music and an enticingly descriptive guide to the joys of Japanese cuisine. Whether your interests lean toward culture and history or the great outdoors, this book will get you there.

The Art and Culture of Japan, by Nelly Delay
Art
A detailed survey of how Japanese architecture, sculpture, scroll painting, drawing, printmaking, and calligraphy reflect developments in religion and politics, from the advent of Zen to the opening of Japan to the West. 165 illustrations, 130 in full color, 2 maps

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